17 days ago | By WWD

David Koma is one of the few designers who don't linger on the ideas of the past, nor is he nostalgic. The muse of his pre-fall 2023 collection was American dog musher DeeDee Ann Jonrowe, the female record holder of the annual Iditarod Trail Sled Dog Race. Jonrowe's attitude is of high glamour in a pink parka coat with a fur trim; brown suede gloves with an embroidered printed flower, and a brown fur hat with a pinned pink mandala-esque brooch.
“I'm always inspired by incredible women in mainly male dominated sports,” said Koma, adding that he was moved by Jonrowe's strength.
In almost...
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Huishan Zhang Pre-Fall 2023

17 days ago | By WWD

Chinese-born designer Huishan Zhang is a cinephile - each of his collections are centered around a different starlet of the big screen.
For pre-fall 2023, he's chosen Kim Novak, the star of Alfred Hitchcock's critically acclaimed film noir “Vertigo,” which was released nearly 65 years ago.
“It's really a horror movie but it's very stylish. The woman is at the center of the story,” Zhang said on a Zoom call from China, alluding to the scene in which the character of Judy becomes Madeleine, emerging from a soft turquoise fog in a cinched gray skirt suit.
Zhang borrowed key parts from costume...
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Khaite Pre-Fall 2023

17 days ago | By WWD

“Every time we talk about our woman, it's very stealth, fast, strong, confident and with this one, we went in a darker direction,” Khaite's Catherine Holstein said during a preview of her pre-fall collection. The creative director's collections are built upon that New York attitude - with touches of nostalgia fueled by Holstein's reconnection with forming her aesthetic identity.
Her pre-fall collection offered this balance through a sharp, minimalist ‘90s mindset (including a mostly neutral palette, with soft shots of color) with a bit of ‘80s quirk and plenty of “slightly sadistic,” sexy...
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